Good watercooling kit?

[Comixion]

Ok, I want to watercool my CPU (only). What's the best route to go? Kits? individual pcs.? What are some good items at decent prices.?
This is my first. So nothing too fancy. But reliable. NOT CHEAPO

[BAM!]

i am planning on stepping up to a super 4X1200mm water cooling setup. i can sell you my Koolance EX2 if you want it. you just have to replace the fans as i said before they're dying on me. let me know if you're interested.

[Comixion]

What's included with it and is it fairly manageable replacing them? I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I dont want to screw it up. I really did like that Koolance you sold a few months back. Is this one silver or black? Not that it matters.
Pics?

[BAM!]

it's silver. it's fairy easy to install consider it's pretty much plug and play. everything is included except the waterblock (i plan on re-use the block) and the water (since i can't ship liquid, and i dont want to).

only thing is because the fans are dying and losing its airflow, you'll have to take apart the whole kit to get to the fan. i don't know why Kooolance's designer didn't think of this as they designed the kit. they should've thought of an easier way for user to replace the fan instead of taking a part the whole thing. i am not gonna lie to you, it's gonna require some work taking the whole thing apart. quite a few screws.

let me know if you're still interested, cause i plan on buying a new full tower case and start shopping for the new 4X120 radiator after thanks giving.

[Avid6eek]

Don't you have trouble mounting a standard push pin air cooler?

[Comixion]

Don't you have trouble mounting a standard push pin air cooler?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e155/Comixion/ThreadHijack.gif

That's their fault for making crappy HW mounts. You can't put a square peg in a round hole.

[BAM!]

Don't you have trouble mounting a standard push pin air cooler?

LOL.......... maybe i'll do it for you. so you don't break it.

[ouch1{SARs}]

IMHO I would check out DangerDen, or Petra's Tech Shop rather than buying a Koolance kit. They will the best options to build a completely custom water cooling loop. Plus a custom loop will outperform a Koolance based loop in the long run.

-ouch1

[jdrom17]

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX-ultima.asp

That would do nicely IMO.

[BAM!]

IMHO I would check out DangerDen, or Petra's Tech Shop rather than buying a Koolance kit. They will the best options to build a completely custom water cooling loop. Plus a custom loop will outperform a Koolance based loop in the long run.

-ouch1

we have discussed that countless times in the past. yes, Koolance is not as good as if you were to build an all out custom DD or custom what not. but bottom line is, if the user just want the easiest plug-and-play kit that does not sacrifice performance, Koolance's EXOS is the only thing in the market. but of course comes with a price tag. do a search, i believe we've talked about it in the past in two different threads.

i've been to the custom water building scene way before i bought "two" koolance EXOS2 units. and i can attest that the performance of Koolance's EXOS line is definitely up there. i can understand some of the criticism about koolance's products because they're over priced, because they are and i know it. but to somebody who is in the market for the least amount of work involved.... he/she is going to have to pay for it. that was the exact reason i left the custom scene and went with the plug-and play because i was tired of the work involved with my custom built swiftech. i wanted something i could easily plug, and unplug and install it into another case.

[BAM!]

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-APEX-ultima.asp

That would do nicely IMO.

yes JD, we know you're all about Swiftech. :D

[jdrom17]

yes JD, we know you're all about Swiftech. :D
Pfft I don't use a Swiftech block, only my rad and pump is, though my pump has a XSPC top on it so it's half and half ;)

[ouch1{SARs}]

we have discussed that countless times in the past. yes, Koolance is not as good as if you were to build an all out custom DD or custom what not. but bottom line is, if the user just want the easiest plug-and-play kit that does not sacrifice performance, Koolance's EXOS is the only thing in the market. but of course comes with a price tag. do a search, i believe we've talked about it in the past in two different threads.

i've been to the custom water building scene way before i bought "two" koolance EXOS2 units. and i can attest that the performance of Koolance's EXOS line is definitely up there. i can understand some of the criticism about koolance's products because they're over priced, because they are and i know it. but to somebody who is in the market for the least amount of work involved.... he/she is going to have to pay for it. that was the exact reason i left the custom scene and went with the plug-and play because i was tired of the work involved with my custom built swiftech. i wanted something i could easily plug, and unplug and install it into another case.

Well you don't have to flame me over it. All I am stating is that I would not buy a Koolance kit. EVER! I do not like the fact that they use aluminum and copper in thier loops. Even if they do gold plate thier stuff there is way too much of a risk of galvanic corrosion. All it would take is a scratch through the plating and viola! instant corrosion (you know what I mean). I am sorry but IMHO (as I stated in my previous reply) I would prefer to go with a completely copper or a copper/brass loop. By going that route you will minimize the risk of corrosion and will have some of the best temps you can get. And even more so by going with a custom loop you will be able to build the best loop for your system; to the point of even having it mounted inside the case. None of this having to mount a bulky radiator/fan/res/pump housing on the top of your case. I am sorry but I am a strong believer in the "K.I.S.S." theory. Therefore I prefer to have most if not all of my loop mounted inside my case so in case it were to tip over (while driving to a lan party or due to an earthquake since I live in California) there is less of a chance of a hose getting ripped loose and coolant draining all over.

Plus of the cost of an Exos2 ($349.99 @ http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=376 with 10mm barbs) kit the OP could build the completely custom loop from DangerDen and not have to worry about corrosion, and or having to mount a bulky unit onto the top of his system.
MC-TDX for Intel 775 CPU/Boards (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=291&cat=92&page=1) $59.95
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed by Laing (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=274&cat=23&page=1) $76.95
Yate Loon Medium Speed Fan: D12SM-12 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=283) $13.98 ($6.99 each)
Thermochill PA120.2 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=204&cat=15&page=1) $123.99
ThermoChill Performance Shroud (Black) (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=188&cat=15&page=1) $14.99
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=52) $29.95
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=238) 8 feet $4.78 ($.59 per foot)
All the op would need to buy after that would be some hose clamps and coolant. It could be mounted entirely inside his computer case and not have to worry about a bulky unit sitting on top of it. All for a total of $324.59 that is roughly $25 less than the Koolance Exos2 kit with 10mm barbs and an ID for thier tubing of 3/8". Compared to an ID of 1/2" with the DangerDen loop which should give you better temps, fairly low noise levels, and little if no chance for an issue with galvanic corrosion.

-ouch1

OBTW - DangerDen is located in Astoria Oregon so there will bo no (I repeat NO) sales tax. Just the sales tax here in California would make the Exos2 cost $378.86. Making the Dd loop over $50 less than the Exos2 kit.

[AKHandyman]

I would agree with you. The cost is negligible between the two. I prefer to custom build as well. Comixion, on the other hand, ... oh how to say this tactfully, ... is, uhmm ... slightly challenged shall we say? :p:D (Joking of course!) But with our help, I bet we can get him over the hump.

I have a Swiftech MCP655 pump, a D-Tek FuZion V2 water-block, a Thermochill PA120.3 radiator and fan shroud, 3 Noctua NF-12P fans, an XSPC reservoir and plenty of barbs and tubing. I am going to put together a window radiator box, but for what Comixion wants to do ... he can mount his radiator in the bottom of his case. He has the Antec 1200, so I believe he has the room.
A single bay reservoir would be adequate. Matter of fact, I just ordered the XSPC single-bay reservoir/pump (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=367&products_id=22697) combo as a secondary cooling loop for my chipset (whichever one you guys help me decide on :p). There's a myriad list of options and I think Comixion would at least like to try to play with the big boys ... :D

[BAM!]

Well you don't have to flame me over it. All I am stating is that I would not buy a Koolance kit. EVER! I do not like the fact that they use aluminum and copper in thier loops. Even if they do gold plate thier stuff there is way too much of a risk of galvanic corrosion. All it would take is a scratch through the plating and viola! instant corrosion (you know what I mean). I am sorry but IMHO (as I stated in my previous reply) I would prefer to go with a completely copper or a copper/brass loop. By going that route you will minimize the risk of corrosion and will have some of the best temps you can get. And even more so by going with a custom loop you will be able to build the best loop for your system; to the point of even having it mounted inside the case. None of this having to mount a bulky radiator/fan/res/pump housing on the top of your case. I am sorry but I am a strong believer in the "K.I.S.S." theory. Therefore I prefer to have most if not all of my loop mounted inside my case so in case it were to tip over (while driving to a lan party or due to an earthquake since I live in California) there is less of a chance of a hose getting ripped loose and coolant draining all over.

Plus of the cost of an Exos2 ($349.99 @ http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=376 with 10mm barbs) kit the OP could build the completely custom loop from DangerDen and not have to worry about corrosion, and or having to mount a bulky unit onto the top of his system.
MC-TDX for Intel 775 CPU/Boards (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=291&cat=92&page=1) $59.95
DD12V-D5 Pump Fixed Speed by Laing (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=274&cat=23&page=1) $76.95
Yate Loon Medium Speed Fan: D12SM-12 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=283) $13.98 ($6.99 each)
Thermochill PA120.2 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=204&cat=15&page=1) $123.99
ThermoChill Performance Shroud (Black) (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=188&cat=15&page=1) $14.99
Danger Den Single 5 1/4" Bay Reservoir (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=52) $29.95
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=238) 8 feet $4.78 ($.59 per foot)
All the op would need to buy after that would be some hose clamps and coolant. It could be mounted entirely inside his computer case and not have to worry about a bulky unit sitting on top of it. All for a total of $324.59 that is roughly $25 less than the Koolance Exos2 kit with 10mm barbs and an ID for thier tubing of 3/8". Compared to an ID of 1/2" with the DangerDen loop which should give you better temps, fairly low noise levels, and little if no chance for an issue with galvanic corrosion.

-ouch1

OBTW - DangerDen is located in Astoria Oregon so there will bo no (I repeat NO) sales tax. Just the sales tax here in California would make the Exos2 cost $378.86. Making the Dd loop over $50 less than the Exos2 kit.

i wasn' flaming you. it's just the same topic discussed over and over, i am sorry if you got the impression of being flamed.

like i said before, i've owned both custom built kits from swiftech and Koolance kits. and from experience Koolance has never given me any problem like you described. none! and i've owned two of them. i don't understand how people can sometimes trash koolance simply out of hate while most of them never even used one before. they worked just wonderful for me. yes they're more expensive, yes. so what if you can afford it.

i would say your whole theory of goldplate corrosion is unrealistic. i've never encountered that of the years i've own the two kits, also never have i seen anyone encounter it, or heard/read anywhere on the internet about people having their kits corrode due to gold plate layer wear. Koolance chosed to gold plate their block not because to prevent corrosion (but it sure does), but primarily to enhance the heat transfer. lets not forget gold still is the highest heat transfer properties (next to diamond) among all metals. that aside, i do see a lot of cases where people's swiftech block corrode, or their whatever brand radiator internals corrode due to the incorrect type of water they use. so corrosion is not the issue with Koolance.

i too live in california, although i do not go to LAN parties. i have moved my case quite a few times. it's no difficult to move the case like you said. you simply lift it up and put it in your trunk. and if you're so insecure about dropping it, Koolance also has a custom strap for you to strap it down. but i think that's a waste of money, another way for them to get you.

there is no question that i would recommand a custom built kit any day to anyone who wants the cheapest and best performance possible. however, if someone who is 1. don't want the hassle and 2. don't care about the cost, however, 3. does not want to sacrifice performance. 4. or technically inclined. lets face it.... in those cases, Koolance is the only thing that comes closet to it (but be ready to shell out some money) other than running a hose directly to a ice bucket like our old friend recycle did. man those were the good old days. :)

[Comixion]

Me and my ideas about watercooling.:bball:


;)

[AKHandyman]

Remember the first time you brought this up? I said get a bucket of ice and blow a fan over it onto your computer ... that may be the easy and inexpensive way out! :D

[BAM!]

does anyone here remember recyle? or am i the only old fart here. technically i mean. :D

[Comixion]

does anyone here remember recyle? or am i the only old fart here. technically i mean. :D


Your'e the only ole fart here. ;)

[BAM!]

lol... no for real... that kid was the first person who had the guts to run a hose to a bucket full of ice (filled daily) and had the highest overclock on the forum with his EPOX 8RDA board.

boy that was right when swiftech released their first watercooling kit and Colin did a review on it. right around the time frame when koolance released their first kit that came only with 2X80mm radiator and was heavily bottlenecked by the 1/4" ID tubing.

i remember colin's review on swiftech's first watercooling kit that came with only ONE 80mm radiator, he paired it with a peltier thermal electric setup under the waterblock and the water got so hot that he said it started boiling lol.

[AKHandyman]

... the waterblock and the water got so hot that he said it started boiling lol. I guess this may mean that if Comixion can't quite cool his computer, he can sure as hell have a cup of coffee ... :p

[FrozenMercury]

If you want to go down the cheap out buy the Coolit cpu cooler. http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=28203&vpn=P1%2D1002%2FLCW1C&manufacture=CoolIT%20Systems

Make sure you're in the Canadian site. It's on sale and cheap lol. It's probably slightly better than the standard air cooler on the market for about the same price for you.

You could always mod it a bit.. Like a bigger rad, and a TEC plate

Here's a review. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHyuSZ-Ydfg

One member had one of these, I can't remember who... Was it JD?

[jdrom17]

If you want to go down the cheap out buy the Coolit cpu cooler. http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=28203&vpn=P1%2D1002%2FLCW1C&manufacture=CoolIT%20Systems

Make sure you're in the Canadian site. It's on sale and cheap lol. It's probably slightly better than the standard air cooler on the market for about the same price for you.

You could always mod it a bit.. Like a bigger rad, and a TEC plate

Here's a review. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHyuSZ-Ydfg

One member had one of these, I can't remember who... Was it JD?
Hell no. That crap is total garbage. Definitely do NOT buy it.

[Comixion]

Hell no. That crap is total garbage. Definitely do NOT buy it.

Then you DID have it.

[jdrom17]

Then you DID have it.
Nope. Never. My first watercooling setup is what I have right now which is the D-TEK FuZion v2, MCP355 with XSPC top, MCR220 radiator and Bitspower POM 5.25" reservoir.

[BAM!]

i think he probably meant this http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2321

the ibuypower instant plug and play heatsink that runs on water and a radiator to your rear fan. it's listed as the top 6 on frosty's top 10 heatsinks.

[ouch1{SARs}]

i would say your whole theory of goldplate corrosion is unrealistic. i've never encountered that of the years i've own the two kits, also never have i seen anyone encounter it, or heard/read anywhere on the internet about people having their kits corrode due to gold plate layer wear. Koolance chosed to gold plate their block not because to prevent corrosion (but it sure does), but primarily to enhance the heat transfer. lets not forget gold still is the highest heat transfer properties (next to diamond) among all metals. that aside, i do see a lot of cases where people's swiftech block corrode, or their whatever brand radiator internals corrode due to the incorrect type of water they use. so corrosion is not the issue with Koolance.


Actually it can happen quite easily. I was actually talking about Galvanic corrosion not corrosion of the gold plating. What I mean is that if the gold plating were to get scratched or have a defect in the plating (flaking, bubbling, etc) there is a real possibility of Galvanic corrosion starting in a Koolance loop. The reason is that they use copper water blocks that are gold plated, and aluminum radiators. It has been proven many times that if you were to mix aluminum and copper in the same loop without some kind of protective covering (I.e. plating with gold or nickel) then you are risking Galvanic corrosion. The only type of mixed metal loop that will not have Galvanic corrosion is if you were to have copper and brass in the same loop. the reason is that copper and aluminum are noble metals to a varying degrees (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noble_metal) and create an electrical field when they are in water together (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion). AKA Galvanic Corrosion. Where as brass is highly resisant to galvanic corrosion and has been used in underwater applications for many years (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brass).

That is why I will always recommend a loop with either all copper or coppoer and brass components.

-ouch1

[AKHandyman]

That is why I will always recommend a loop with either all copper or copper and brass components.-ouch1

That is a very good recommendation, one that all good children should be made aware of as they grow older ... paying attention Comixion? :p:D