View Full Version : Need ideas to keep my QX6850 from melting
I bought a Xigmatek HDT S1283 a few months ago. At the time, I had just upgraded my motherboard, which lead to better overclocking results, so I needed a better cooler.
Since the upgrades, I've been struggling to keep my CPU below 75C at 3.6Ghz, while running Folding@Home. I want this to work for me, but after reinstalling the heatsink/fan and re-applying the thermal goo, the temperature results haven't changed noticeably...
A couple of ideas come to mind to mitigate this issue as cheaply (less than $20) as possible.
- buy a new 120mm CPU fan
- lap the CPU
Any thoughts? Thanks...
jdrom17
10-10-09, 09:15 PM
Well it's an old 65nm Kentsfield no? So what's wrong with 75C?
If you don't care about noise, grab a nice high-speed Delta :thumb: Also consider getting the bolt-mount instead of the push-pins. Might help too.
Well it's an old 65nm Kentsfield no? So what's wrong with 75C?
If you don't care about noise, grab a nice high-speed Delta :thumb: Also consider getting the bolt-mount instead of the push-pins. Might help too.
Yeah, I found out in the install process how lousy those push pins were:fighty:
Well, understand the 75C isn't too hot per se, it's just that the Xigmatek isn't much of an improvement over the Zalman 9500 it replaced. My QX6850 was running at 3.3Ghz at 80 to 85C for a long time with the Zalman, but I thought the Xigmatek would do a better job...
jdrom17
10-10-09, 10:25 PM
Yeah, I found out in the install process how lousy those push pins were:fighty:
Well, understand the 75C isn't too hot per se, it's just that the Xigmatek isn't much of an improvement over the Zalman 9500 it replaced. My QX6850 was running at 3.3Ghz at 80 to 85C for a long time with the Zalman, but I thought the Xigmatek would do a better job...
Well 5-10C at a higher clock isn't anything to complain about on air IMO
Grab one of these:
http://www.xigmatek.com/product/accessory-crossbow-ack-i7361.php
http://www.xigmatek.com/product/accessory-crossbow-ack-i7751.php
And whatever speed/noise you're comfortable with:
http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/022/dfs1238_detail.html
Should help a bit, and use Arctic MX-2/MX-3 paste. Being fairly generous with it, I put thin lines in each grove, then a drop in the middle of the CPU for my brother's Hyper 212+. Seemed to work well, compared to when I installed my first HDT heatsink (a downdraft Xigmatek), and when I took that off I found that the paste barely covered anything since I had only put a dab in the center of the CPU.
I'd also look at your case airflow too, make sure you have enough cool intake coming into the CPU and enough exhaust to remove the hot air quickly.
Alternatively, you could ditch the Xigmatek all together, get the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ (comes with backplate mounting system), and run dual Kaze Ultras on it.
Comixion
10-11-09, 12:34 AM
I have a better idea. Those suck.
Send it to me and I'll lay a nice Xigmatek on top of it ,,,snug as a bug in a rug.
that's a VERY nice air cooling heatsink you have there... there really isn't anything out there to replace it with that's gonna give you more than a degree or two of difference (air cooling wise).
75 degrees really isn't bad. i run my living room HTPC overclocked Q6600 @ 3.3ghz with a Xigmatek 964 (a 90mm version due to height confinement of the HTPC case). and during the summer it constantly runs at 75 degrees C during load.
i wouldn't sweat about 75 degrees if i were you. unless the noise is bothering you. the next thing up would be water cooling, or lowering your overclock. once you go beyond 85 degrees that's when you should start worry.
what kind of thermal "goo" are you using? better grab yourself a AS5 to shave off a few degrees.
btw, i personally find a big thin line of "X" to be the best way to apply thermal paste on direct heat pipe heatsinks. there's a write up comparison you can google for, people have found all kinds of good way to apply thermal paste on those fancy HDT heatsinks.
jdrom17
10-11-09, 01:03 AM
btw, i personally find a big thin line of "X" to be the best way to apply thermal paste on direct heat pipe heatsinks. there's a write up comparison you can google for, people have found all kinds of good way to apply thermal paste on those fancy HDT heatsinks.
All I know is that it needs more than my flat shiny waterblock :D
Those groves between the heatpipes are just too deep IMO, something they've yet to figure out how to reduce.
All I know is that it needs more than my flat shiny waterblock :D
Those groves between the heatpipes are just too deep IMO, something they've yet to figure out how to reduce.
i hear ya... i've tried applying different methods and taking off the heatsink and check. it seems once you apply a big "X" and then sort of twist the heatsink left and right a few degrees for a few seconds and pull it right off... the paste pretty much covers the whole area, try it next time.
i use big "X" for the HDT, and a round grain of rice for everything else.
ElrichMeister
10-11-09, 07:23 AM
hmm i got the Dark Knight version of that heatsink and fan combo, and have the bolt on brackets im currently at 3.6ghz and in idleing at between 38-41C, loads about 60C, using AS-5, i did get a new tube of Artic MX-3 just to see how it performs, what voltage are you running, since we have same the same CPU. Whats your ambient temperature like?
what kind of thermal "goo" are you using? better grab yourself a AS5 to shave off a few degrees.
I use Arctic Silver 5 :) btw - I'm reading up on the various ways to apply it on the Xigmatek as BAM alluded to… that X pattern seems to be the best. (http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5)
As far as airflow, I upgraded the original fans to a pair of APEVIA CF12SL-UBL 120mm fans, but I also generally leave my PC on its side, with the panel off.
http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w345/Jimmys_photoalbum/DSC00334.jpg
Core voltage: 1.36v
Ambient temps: 20 to 24C
jdrom17
10-11-09, 11:35 AM
As far as airflow, I upgraded the original fans to a pair of APEVIA CF12SL-UBL 120mm fans, but I also generally leave my PC on its side, with the panel off. (http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w345/Jimmys_photoalbum/DSC00334.jpg)
Well your case seems kinda lacking for airflow. Only 2 120s? I'd say moving up to a newer case that has dual 120 intakes would probably help.
Also, I don't really understand why people think leaving the side off helps. You're basically loosing any airflow direction, and it's all just blowing out of the case. My temperatures are worse if my side panel is off, but that might also be in part that I have a positive air pressure setup in my case.
Well your case seems kinda lacking for airflow. Only 2 120s? I'd say moving up to a newer case that has dual 120 intakes would probably help.
Also, I don't really understand why people think leaving the side off helps. You're basically loosing any airflow direction, and it's all just blowing out of the case. My temperatures are worse if my side panel is off, but that might also be in part that I have a positive air pressure setup in my case.
Yeah, its a bad habit that's just asking for large quantities of dust to accumulate...
I'm starting to seriously research putting in a liquid cooling system in my PC. I'm not sure whether or not to buy a kit from Danger Den, Swiftech, or some other place...or assemble parts from a variety of makers.
I was thinking about system based on these parts:
- Swiftech Apogee GTZ waterblock, bought one on 12/15 for $50
- Swiftech MCR220-QP radiator, just bought a lightly used one for $20
- Swiftech MCP655 pump
- 3/8" tubing...???
(basically the Swiftech H20-220 Ultima XT cooling kit)
My goal was to spend less than $120 on a system that will just cool a CPU (and may be the north bridge too) for now. But I want something that I can easily expand to include a couple of video cards.
What are your thoughts?
swiftech is a good play to go for venturing into water cooling. i wouldn't pick anything less than 2X120mm radiator. reason is anything less than that, you won't see much difference for your setup. ideally if you can cramp 3X120mm radiator somewhere into or on your case, you'll see a drastic difference in temperature. other than that, your water block choice is good, and pump choice is also ideal.
you do have to plan every inch carefully to make sure everything fits. and most of all, don't go cheap on the coolant, get the best kind to avoid serious issues. i used to go cheap and mix my own and ended up having to deal with algae.
check out frostytech.com, they just updated their top 5 heatsink list, you might find a heatsink on that list that'll bring down a few more degrees if you decide against going water.
jdrom17
12-05-09, 09:42 PM
Pump wise, there's cheaper ones rather than Laing models.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=26773
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=26112
Which will be plenty for a CPU loop and even if you throw in another block or two.
Block wise, I believe these two perform really well, especially for their price.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_490&products_id=25082
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_495&products_id=25213
3/8" or 1/2" tubing doesn't really matter. Has no real effect. 3/8" is obviously a bit easier to work with since it takes up less space.
Regardless, if you want to throw in GPU(s), you'll need a way bigger and thicker radiator IMO. So to keep within budget, I wouldn't plan for that really. Also NB blocks are typically restrictive and aren't really worth it. A better heatsink (Enzotech?) + fan should suffice.
Though why not just get a cooler/faster Q9550? Or better yet, save up for i5/i7 :p
Pump wise, there's cheaper ones rather than Laing models.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=26773
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=26112
Which will be plenty for a CPU loop and even if you throw in another block or two.
Block wise, I believe these two perform really well, especially for their price.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_490&products_id=25082
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_495&products_id=25213
3/8" or 1/2" tubing doesn't really matter. Has no real effect. 3/8" is obviously a bit easier to work with since it takes up less space.
Regardless, if you want to throw in GPU(s), you'll need a way bigger and thicker radiator IMO. So to keep within budget, I wouldn't plan for that really. Also NB blocks are typically restrictive and aren't really worth it. A better heatsink (Enzotech?) + fan should suffice.
Though why not just get a cooler/faster Q9550? Or better yet, save up for i5/i7 :p
A Q9950 and a CoolerMaster HAF 922 are on another shopping list :thumb:
As far as GPU cooling, I may add a Swiftech MCR320-QP stackable radiator for each card. And as far as the waterblocks and pumps...I'm not familiar with the Performance PCs website, I have some research I have to do.
jdrom17
12-06-09, 01:17 AM
As far as GPU cooling, I may add a Swiftech MCR320-QP stackable radiator for each card. And as far as the waterblocks and pumps...I'm not familiar with the Performance PCs website, I have some research I have to do.
Never had any issues with them. Massive selection of things with about middle pricing. FrozenCPU is the most expensive I find, and smaller shops like Sidewinder have lower prices, but less selection too.
Never had any issues with them. Massive selection of things with about middle pricing. FrozenCPU is the most expensive I find, and smaller shops like Sidewinder have lower prices, but less selection too.
I've noticed that Sidewinder has good prices too...
btw - there's a variety of pumps out there and the Swiftech MCP655-B (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html) caught my eye. It seems to have everything I need, except there's No Speed Control Adjustment
Is this an important feature???
I've noticed that Sidewinder has good prices too...
btw - there's a variety of pumps out there and the Swiftech MCP655-B (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html) caught my eye. It seems to have everything I need, except there's No Speed Control Adjustment
Is this an important feature???
YES!!!...
that pump without speed control will drive you crazy!. be sure to get one with the speed control or you might end up padding up the pump with sound insulation like i did with mine.
jdrom17
12-17-09, 11:11 PM
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacdu5refor.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swiftechmcp355.html
I'd suggest that setup. I have a slightly older version of the reservoir which supports dual DDCs and they share the reservoir, but I'm sure the single model works the same. Great compact setup, keeps everything to 2 bays.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacdu5refor.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swiftechmcp355.html
I'd suggest that setup. I have a slightly older version of the reservoir which supports dual DDCs and they share the reservoir, but I'm sure the single model works the same. Great compact setup, keeps everything to 2 bays.
Would a reservoir/pump combo (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/x2o750du5bay.html) work? I'm such a noob at this, but it seems to me that killing two birds with one stone would work out pretty well...
jdrom17
12-18-09, 11:17 PM
Would a reservoir/pump combo (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/x2o750du5bay.html) work? I'm such a noob at this, but it seems to me that killing two birds with one stone would work out pretty well...
I would say it would be fine for a CPU only loop.
Though if you want to add more blocks, you'll want the MCP355 or MCP655.
phill9800
12-19-09, 01:23 PM
Water cooling will also help you lower the vcore down a bit as well :) So in turn I think it'll help definitely help lower the temps down..
A single rad or double rad will be more than enough for the QX6850, but it just depends how far you'd wanna go :)
Get a decent fan on the rad and you'll be fine :) Can make it as noisy as you want or as quiet as you want, it'll be just fine :)
As for the pump, go for something small like a Swiftec or Laing 18w pump as then you'll be able to put a res on top of it and that'll cut down on tubing and mess inside the case :)
If you live in the UK I'd suggest having a look at a company called Chilled PC :) I know the owner there, Tom and he's helped me out no end with all of my water cooling needs :) Well recommended :)
Comixion
12-19-09, 02:06 PM
Nitrogen.............oh n/m
phill9800
12-19-09, 02:07 PM
If you wanna go nuts, should use liquid heluim, much colder ;)
Water cooling will also help you lower the vcore down a bit as well :) So in turn I think it'll help definitely help lower the temps down..
A single rad or double rad will be more than enough for the QX6850, but it just depends how far you'd wanna go :)
Get a decent fan on the rad and you'll be fine :) Can make it as noisy as you want or as quiet as you want, it'll be just fine :)
As for the pump, go for something small like a Swiftec or Laing 18w pump as then you'll be able to put a res on top of it and that'll cut down on tubing and mess inside the case :)
If you live in the UK I'd suggest having a look at a company called Chilled PC :) I know the owner there, Tom and he's helped me out no end with all of my water cooling needs :) Well recommended :)
If I lived in the UK..lol..sounds like fun, but I'm stuck in Shi*. Oops, I mean Ohio.
Nitrogen.............oh n/m
If you wanna go nuts, should use liquid heluim, much colder ;)
I would if I knew where to get it...cheap, I'm pretty sure Walmart doesn't sell it. :p
phill9800
12-19-09, 02:23 PM
Ah right well I wasnt sure where you was from cos I didnt know where Tropical Wooster was referring too :( :lol:
What sort of air temps do you have around you and why are you considering water cooling for the CPU? Noise or is it just to hot for your liking??
Ah right well I wasnt sure where you was from cos I didnt know where Tropical Wooster was referring too :( :lol:
What sort of air temps do you have around you and why are you considering water cooling for the CPU? Noise or is it just to hot for your liking??
"Tropical" lol, yeah, its a little false advertising for my very very boring residence.
As far as my desire for water cooling...It's a combination of things...Heat, I would like it be around 50C or less under full load, in a 24C room. The noise is another issue that I'm hoping will improve greatly with a liquid cooling system. And lastly, it just something I just want to try :)
phill9800
12-19-09, 02:38 PM
Well I went water cooling over a year ago and I wont ever use air cooling unless its for testing to see if things worked. Water is definitely the best way to go for overall temps/speeds/noise for the daily systems. I dont think its worth going further like Phase or LN2 unless you're doing some very heavy benching..
Are you hoping to put everything in a case mate, or just outside or wherever??
Well I went water cooling over a year ago and I wont ever use air cooling unless its for testing to see if things worked. Water is definitely the best way to go for overall temps/speeds/noise for the daily systems. I dont think its worth going further like Phase or LN2 unless you're doing some very heavy benching..
Are you hoping to put everything in a case mate, or just outside or wherever??
I'll probably get a dual 5.25" drive reservoir and put the pump on the bottom of the case. The radiator will be external, but I haven't figured out where to mount it yet. On the back would probably work the best, but the top has plenty of space for it. Also, part of my indecision comes from whether or not I have money in the budget for a new case. If I use my Thermaltake Tsunami...I'll being punching more holes in it...you should see my custom cable management hole I made above the motherboard http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w345/Jimmys_photoalbum/1210092109.jpg
:fighty: I'm unhappy with the case, I don't mind tearing it up a little.
phill9800
12-19-09, 03:09 PM
I wouldnt bother with something like that :)
If you get a Laing 18w and res top for it, you'll save yourself the two 5.25" slots and you'll be able to put the res and pump at the bottom of the case without it disturbing much :)
Plus you can or could mount a rad outside the back of the case which works well, but does sometimes limit what you can connect to it which is a shame.. How big a rad where you thinking of having?
I wouldnt bother with something like that :)
If you get a Laing 18w and res top for it, you'll save yourself the two 5.25" slots and you'll be able to put the res and pump at the bottom of the case without it disturbing much :)
Plus you can or could mount a rad outside the back of the case which works well, but does sometimes limit what you can connect to it which is a shame.. How big a rad where you thinking of having?
I own a Swiftech MCR220-QP, with 1/2" connectors.
phill9800
12-19-09, 05:21 PM
Might be worth a look at selling it or putting it in another setup :) I think the other combo would be better if your looking to keep it inside the case :)
Might be worth a look at selling it or putting it in another setup :) I think the other combo would be better if your looking to keep it inside the case :)
Yeah, another case is the best option, but since this case is front of me now, it's hard for me not to try to find a way to get this all to work out.
phill9800
12-20-09, 06:30 AM
Most of the water cooling I've done I put it outside the case rather than inside and I tend to just not bother using cases at all now! :) Much easier :)
Dizzious
12-22-09, 10:11 AM
A couple of ideas come to mind to mitigate this issue as cheaply (less than $20) as possible.
- buy a new 120mm CPU fan
If you want to go for a new fan, I always recommend the 120mm Cooljag Everflow (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c15s69#blank) to people. It is, simply put, flat-out, the best 120mm PWM fan on the market in my opinion. The amount of air it moves, relative to the amount of noise it makes, is the best ratio I have seen on any 120mm fan. I've had mine for a little over a year now, and I regard it as the best fan I have ever owned by a wide margin.
phill9800
12-22-09, 01:52 PM
If you can get hold of Yate Loon fans, I suggest those as they are cheap and offer a very decent flow rate of air compared to most other fans I've seen around.
If you want to go for a new fan, I always recommend the 120mm Cooljag Everflow (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c15s69#blank) to people. It is, simply put, flat-out, the best 120mm PWM fan on the market in my opinion. The amount of air it moves, relative to the amount of noise it makes, is the best ratio I have seen on any 120mm fan. I've had mine for a little over a year now, and I regard it as the best fan I have ever owned by a wide margin.
Thanks for the suggestion. Can you give me a sense of how loud it is? I'm considering it, will a pair of these be powerful enough to keep my dual gtx 260 cool enough so I don't have to set the gpu blower to 60% or higher? Most of the noise coming out of my case is the high-pitched whine coming from the video cards...
Dizzious
12-24-09, 10:16 AM
When my system is idle, and I reach into the case and stop the Cooljag fan with my hand, I can't hear any difference in the amount or pitch of noise that my machine is making.
When it's running at idle speed (somewhere between 600 and 800 rpm I believe), you would have to have a completely silent room in order to hear it. The only fan I have that's quieter at idle is my Enermax Marathon - and that's a low-rpm fan with a mag-lev beaing :)
I can only hear it when I load up my CPU, and when that happens, it's still not as loud as my graphics card. If I go into bios and turn off Q-fan, so that the CPU fan is at 100%, then it gets pretty noticeable - but I've never heard it get up to 100% while Q-fan is turned on.
Keep in mind, I've got liquid cooling (only a single 120mm rad, though) and my lean little E7200 puts off a lot less heat than a 6850. Still, if anyone finds a fan that will put off 110cfm at less than the 40db the Everflow is rated at, then I will ditch the Everflow and buy it :)
When my system is idle, and I reach into the case and stop the Cooljag fan with my hand, I can't hear any difference in the amount or pitch of noise that my machine is making.
When it's running at idle speed (somewhere between 600 and 800 rpm I believe), you would have to have a completely silent room in order to hear it. The only fan I have that's quieter at idle is my Enermax Marathon - and that's a low-rpm fan with a mag-lev beaing :)
I can only hear it when I load up my CPU, and when that happens, it's still not as loud as my graphics card. If I go into bios and turn off Q-fan, so that the CPU fan is at 100%, then it gets pretty noticeable - but I've never heard it get up to 100% while Q-fan is turned on.
Keep in mind, I've got liquid cooling (only a single 120mm rad, though) and my lean little E7200 puts off a lot less heat than a 6850. Still, if anyone finds a fan that will put off 110cfm at less than the 40db the Everflow is rated at, then I will ditch the Everflow and buy it :)
Wow, that's impressive...thanks for the info, the Cooljag fans will go on my shopping list.:thumb:
jdrom17
12-24-09, 10:39 AM
As a note, the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are known to be some of the quietest fans for radiators while maintaining a good about of static pressure.
They are a bit expensive and at times difficult to find, however I'd seriously consider them. They come in various speeds as well so you don't need to rely on Q-Fan or whatever your BIOS has, which becomes more difficult if you have multiple fans.
phill9800
01-02-10, 07:37 AM
Dio you have a link for the Enermax Marathon?? :)
Dio you have a link for the Enermax Marathon?? :)
Where to buy one (http://www.xoxide.com/enermax-marathon-enlobal-fan-120mm.html) or from the manufacturer? (http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_68&products_id=101&osCsid=08bc6c874bcf47fa4297c45f345ace1f)
btw - recently acquired a Swiftech MCP655 & Swiftech MicroRes Rev2 and I'm wondering what people use to change from the pump's 1/2" to 3/8" ID tubing...
jdrom17
01-04-10, 09:16 PM
Where to buy one (http://www.xoxide.com/enermax-marathon-enlobal-fan-120mm.html) or from the manufacturer? (http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_68&products_id=101&osCsid=08bc6c874bcf47fa4297c45f345ace1f)
btw - recently acquired a Swiftech MCP655 & Swiftech MicroRes Rev2 and I'm wondering what people use to change from the pump's 1/2" to 3/8" ID tubing...
Why not just use 1/2" tubing then? If you really must use 3/8", soak it in boiling water and you may be able to stretch it over the 1/2" barbs on the pump. Otherwise you'll need to buy a rather expensive pump top.
phill9800
01-05-10, 05:09 PM
Where to buy one (http://www.xoxide.com/enermax-marathon-enlobal-fan-120mm.html) or from the manufacturer? (http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_68&products_id=101&osCsid=08bc6c874bcf47fa4297c45f345ace1f)
btw - recently acquired a Swiftech MCP655 & Swiftech MicroRes Rev2 and I'm wondering what people use to change from the pump's 1/2" to 3/8" ID tubing...
Sorry chap I must have mis understood cos I thought you said those fans where fast!! :lol: 44CFM wouldnt cool my water!! :lol:
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